Black tie

Black tie is the formal evening dress code that traditionally specifies tuxedos for the men in the room and floor-length or cocktail-length formal attire for the women.

The dress code originated in the late nineteenth century as a less-formal alternative to white tie. Black tie specifically refers to the black bow tie that distinguishes the tuxedo from white tie's white bow tie and tailcoat. The contemporary version has loosened in practice (the strict midnight-blue-or-black requirement, the no-vest rule, the no-wristwatch rule have all faded) while still being meaningfully different from the codes that sit below it: cocktail, semi-formal, business formal.

What the code actually requires

The traditional men's standard: a tuxedo with satin lapels (notch, peak, or shawl), black bow tie (not a long tie), black formal shoes (patent leather classically, well-polished leather acceptably), white dress shirt with a pleated or pique front, no belt (suspenders or side-adjusters), often a cummerbund or formal waistcoat. The traditional women's standard: a floor-length gown, dressy cocktail-length acceptable in many contemporary contexts, fine jewelry, evening shoes. Neither standard is gender-locked anymore; the working interpretation is that the dress code asks for the formal-evening register and the wearer chooses which version of that register fits them.

Variants

Black tie optional means the host will be in black tie but does not expect every guest to be (a dark suit and tie is acceptable). Creative black tie invites the formal register with a stylistic twist (a velvet jacket, a colored bow tie, dramatic accessories). Black tie preferred is a gentle push toward the full code; black tie required is the firm version. The variants matter, the line between preferred and required is often the difference between a dark suit and a tuxedo, and guests benefit from reading the invitation precisely.

When black tie is called for

Black tie typically signals an evening event starting at six p.m. or later: a wedding reception, a charity gala, a major anniversary, an opening night, a formal birthday. Daytime events almost never call for black tie; if an invitation specifies black tie for a noon ceremony, it usually means the reception is the evening event and the formal code applies to that piece. The dress code on the invitation is the host's signal about the event's register, and dressing too formally is almost always less awkward than dressing too informally for a code that was clearly specified.

Where it shows up around VibeLovely

Black tie is part of Wedding Etiquette coverage on dress codes.

References

• Post, P., Post, A., Post, L., & Senning, D. P. (2017). Emily Post's Etiquette (19th ed.). William Morrow.
• Emily Post Institute. Dress codes explained. emilypost.com
• Vanderbilt, A. (1995). Amy Vanderbilt's Complete Book of Etiquette (Rev. ed.). Doubleday.
• The Knot. Wedding dress codes by formality. theknot.com